ABSTRACT Title of Document: A COSTUME DESIGN FOR JOHN PATRICK SHANLEY'S SAVAE IN LIMB Yvete Marie Ryan, Master of Fine Arts, 2006 Directed By: Profesor Heln Q. Huang, Department of Theatre The purpose of this thesis is to document the artistic proces of the costume design for John Patrick Shanley's Savage in Limbo, which was produced at the University of Maryland, College Park by the Department of Theatre in March of 2006. The intent of this document is to depict the costume designer's proces from textual analysis through completion of the stage design in four chapters. Chapter 1 is a textual analysis of Shanley's script. Chapter 2 details the metings, visual research and pre- production colaboration of the director and design team that worked to create the design concept. Chapter 3 documents the technical realization of the costume design and collaboration with other members of the production team. Chapter 4 is a critical self-analysis reflecting on both strengths and weakneses of the costume design and the designer's proces. A COSTUME DESIGN FOR JOHN PATRICK SHANLEY'S SAVAGE IN LIMBO By Yvete Marie Ryan Thesis submited to the Faculty of the Graduate School of the University of Maryland, Colege Park, in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Fine Arts 2006 Advisory Commite: Profesor Heln Q. Huang, Chair Asociate Profesor and Director of Master of Fine Arts in Theatre Daniel Conway Profesor Mitchel Hebert ? Copyright by Yvete Marie Ryan 2006 i Table of Contents Table of Contents..........................................................................................................i List of Figures..............................................................................................................iv Introduction...................................................................................................................1 Chapter 1: Textual Analysis..........................................................................................4 John Patrick Shanley: ?Bard of the Bronx?..............................................................4 Savage: A 1960s Bronx Childhood...........................................................................5 In Limbo: Shanley in the 1980s................................................................................7 The Greed Decade...................................................................................................10 Chapter 2: Pre-Production Proces.............................................................................14 Concept Meting.....................................................................................................14 Research..............................................................................................................15 Research Exchange and the ?Interactive Cornel Box?......................................16 Research Presentation Meting...............................................................................18 Sketching and Post-Research Meting................................................................18 Preliminary Design Presentation.............................................................................20 Sketching, Round Two........................................................................................21 Design Presentation................................................................................................21 Revisiting April...................................................................................................2 Design Check-up Meting..................................................................................23 esign Approval.....................................................................................................24 Chapter 3: Production Proces....................................................................................25 Shopping.................................................................................................................25 Fitings: Round One................................................................................................27 Rehearsal Room Changes: Shoes............................................................................30 Fitings: Round Two...............................................................................................32 Tech Wekend and Dres Rehearsals.....................................................................32 Chapter 4: Post-Production Self-Analysis..................................................................36 Costumes On Stage: What Worked........................................................................36 Costumes On Stage: What Didn?t Work.................................................................38 Communication and Collaboration.........................................................................40 The Director and Goal-Oriented Problem Solving.............................................40 The Design Team: Al for One, and One for Al................................................41 Different Actors, Different Neds.......................................................................43 The Costume Shop..............................................................................................44 Life Lesons: Finding the Happy Medium.............................................................45 Flexibility............................................................................................................45 Maintaining Perspective......................................................................................46 Conclusion..............................................................................................................48 Appendix A: Visual Research.....................................................................................49 ppendix B: Costume Renderings..............................................................................72 Appendix C: Production Photographs........................................................................79 ppendix D: Supporting Paperwork...........................................................................89 ii Bibliography...............................................................................................................92 iv List of Figures Figure 1: Research Image for Savage in Limbo?Visual Response??.49 Figure 2: Research Image for Savage in Liboisual Response-------49 Figure 3: Research Image for Savage in Limbo?Visual Response??.50 Figure 4: Research Image for Savage in Liboisual Response??.50 Figure 5: Research Image for Savage in Limbo?Visual Response??.51 Figure 6: Research Image for Denise Savage???????????51 Figure 7: Research Image for Denise Savage???????????52 Figure 8: Research Image for Denise Savage?Dres???????...53 Figure 9: Research Image for Denise SavageHair????????.54 Figure 10: Research Image for Linda Rotunda?????????.....55 Figure 11: Research Image for Linda Rotunda??????????.56 Figure 12: Research Image for Linda Rotunda??????????.57 Figure 13: Research Image for Linda Rotunda?Tops???????.58 Figure 14: Research Image for Linda RotundaJeans???????59 Figure 15: Research Image for Linda Rotunda?Boots???????60 Figure 16: Research Image for Linda RotundaHair and Make-up??61 Figure 17: Research Image for Tony Aronica??????????...62 Figure 18: Research Image for Tony Aronica Figure 19: Research Image for Tony Aronica?Clothes??????...63 Figure 20: Research Image for April White???????????..64 Figure 21: Research Image for April hite???????????..65 Figure 22: Research Image for April White Figure 23: Research Image for April hite?Dres????????.66 Figure 24: Research Image for Murk??????????????67 Figure 25: Research Image for Murk??????????????67 Figure 26: Research Image for Murk??????????????68 Figure 27: Research Image for Murk??????????????69 Figure 28: Research Image for Murk?Clothes?????????....70 Figure 29: Research Image for MurkShoes??????????..71 Figure 30: Costume Rendering? Denise Savage?????????.72 Figure 31: Costume RenderingLinda Rotunda?????????..73 Figure 32: Costume Rendering?Tony Aronica (Final)???????74 Figure 33: Costume Rendering Tony Aronic (Alternate Color One)?75 Figure 34: Costume Rendering?Tony Aronica (Alternate Color Two)...75 Figure 35: Costume RenderingApril White (Final)????????76 Figure 36: Costume Rendering?pril White (Alternate One)??....?.77 Figure 37: Costume RenderingApril White (Alternate Two)????77 Figure 38: Costume Rendering?Murk?????????????..78 Figure 39: Production PhotoDenise Savage??...????????79 Figure 40: Production Photo?Linda, Denise, Murk????????.80 Figure 41: Production PhotoLinda, Denise, Murk????????.81 Figure 42: Production Photo?Denise, Murk, April????????..81 Figure 43: Production PhotoTony, Murk, Linda?????????82 Figure 44: Production Photo?Linda, Tony????????...???83 v Figure 45: Production Photo?Tony Aronica??????????..84 Figure 46: Production PhotoMurk, April???????????.85 Figure 47: Production Photo?urk, April (Santa)????????.85 Figure 48: Production Photo April White???????????.86 Figure 49: Production Photo?April, Denise, Murk????????87 Figure 50: Production Photo Set Design and Lighting Design??....88 1 Introduction The purpose of this thesis is to document and analyze the costume design proces for John Patrick Shanley?s Savage in Limbo, produced at the University of Maryland, College Park in March 2006 by the Department of Theatre and the Woolly Mamoth Theatre Company in the Robert and Arlene Kogod Theatre. This was the second show produced under the auspices of a new working relationship betwen the Department of Theatre and the Woolly Mamoth Theatre Company, a profesional company located in Washington D.C. In this arrangement, student actors and designers and stage managers have the opportunity to work with their profesional counterparts in a ?blended company? under the artistic guidance of both the faculty of the Department of Theatre and members of the Woolly Mamoth Theatre Company. For this production of Savage in Limbo, Profesor Mitchel H?bert, a long time meber of both the Woolly Mamoth Theatre Company and the performance faculty at the University of Maryland, served as director. Eric Van Wyk was the set designer, Rebeca Wolf designed the lights, and Kathryn Pong was the sound designer. Lisa Vivo was the production Stage Manager and her Asistant Stage Managers were Becki Wegand and Jenna Deacon. Visiting Asistant Profesor Susan Haedicke was the lead dramaturg and Ana Marie Salmat was her asistant. The costume shop manager was Alison Ragland. Marilyn Deighton, Lecturer in costume technology, was the show?s draper, with additional support provided by Susan Chiang and Lisa Burges, both drapers in the University of Maryland costume shop. The asistant to the costume designer was Jackie Litman. 2 Faculty advisors for this production were Profesor Heln Q. Huang (costumes), Asociate Profesor Daniel Conway (set) and Asistant Profesor Harold Burges (lights) who also served as the overal design supervisor. Daniel MacLean Wagner served as Artistic Director for the Department of Theatre in conjunction with Harold Shalwitz, Artistic Director of Wooly Mamoth Theatre Company. Additional artistic support was provided by Brian Smith, Production Manager for Woolly Mamoth Theatre Company. Theatre is art with an expiration date. After the show closes the only things that remain are production photos and paperwork generated during the proces of geting the show on stage. The show, as it existed for a brief time, is gone forever. In this document, I wil atempt to preserve a fragment of the Savage in Limbo I helped to create. In Chapter One, I provide pertinent background information about John Patrick Shanley, the play, and the time in which it was writen. I also discuss how Savage in Limbo is not only a play relvant to a particular time in the author?s life, but also a play representing a greater point of view on the 1980s as an era. Chapter Two documents the costume design proces from Concept Meting to Design Approval, focusing on research, design development, artistic ollaboration, and revision as parts of my design proces. In Chapter 3, I detail the realization of the costume design from initial approval through opening night, with particular emphasis placed on the acquisition of 3 costume pieces, costume fitings, and collaboration with both my felow designers and the costume shop. Chapter 4 is a critical self-analysis that focuses on both the strengths and weaknes of not only the production, but also of myself as a designer and an artist preparing to enter the profesional world. 4 Chapter 1: Textual Analysis John Patrick Shanley is a prolific playwright. In a carer spanning three decades, he has writen more than twenty plays ranging from homegrown tales of the Bronx to topical treatments on current events. Savage in Limbo is one of Shanley?s early ?Bronx plays?. Laden with personal demons, it is not only a representation of his personal struggles, but also a snapshot of a subsection of people failing to live up to ideals of the so-caled Greed Decade of 1980s America. John Patrick Shanley: ?Bard of the Bronx? John Patrick Shanley burst onto the theatre scene in 1983 with Danny and the Dep Blue Sea and has been turning out new work regularly ever since including the dreamer examines his pilow, Italian American Reconciliation, Beggars in the House of Plenty, Psychopathia Sexualis, Dirty Story, and Doubt, which won a Tony Award and the Pulitzer Prize in 2004. In the middle of his artisticaly rich playwriting career, he turned to screenwriting to pay the bils when the National Endowment for the Arts grant he was living on began to dwindle 1 . George Harrison (of Beatles fame) produced Shanley?s first screenplay Five Corners in 1987, paving the way for Moonstruck, for which he won an Academy Award, later that same year. Other screenplays include Joe Versus the Volcano (also 1 Robert Coe, ?The Evolution of John Patrick Shanley.? American Theatre; Nov 2004, Vol. 21, No. 9, 25. 5 his film directorial debut) and screen adaptations of Alive and Congo. He was nominated for an Emy award in 2002 for HBO?s Live From Baghdad. Al of these achievements come from a man who was ??thrown out of St. Helna?s kindergarten? banned from St. Anthony?s hot lunch program? expeled from cardinal Spelman High School? [and] placed on academic probation by New York University,? during his semingly misguided youth 2 . While John Patrick Shanley left behind his past, serving in the Marine Corps and eventualy returning to NYU to graduate valedictorian of al schools, some of his best work (including award winners Moonstruck and Doubt) has remained close to home. Shanley grew up in an Italian-Irish imigrant neighborhood of the Bronx in the 1960s where he atended Catholic schools until he was expeled from high school and sent to a boarding school in New Hampshire. His blue-collar neighborhood and Catholic-school background figure heavily into his work, especialy his early plays. Savage: A 1960s Bronx Childhood Savage in Limbo was Shanley?s 1984 follow-up to Danny and the Dep Blue Sea. It is especialy entrenched in not only the Bronx of the early 1980s, but also meories of the Bronx he grew up in during the 1960s. While the characters are reflecting on their Catholic gramar school past, we are alowed to taste both the swetnes of their dreams and the biternes of the environment in which they grew up and have never been able to escape. 2 Playbil, ?Playbil Biography: John Patrick Shanley,? http:/ww.playbil.com/celberitybuzz/whoswho/biography/11189 (acesed 09 March 2006) 6 In my neighborhood, they?d take penguins out of the Bronx Zoo and beat them to death. I was hung off a five-story building by my fet when I was a child and threatened that they were going to drop me, and I was beaten or in fistfights several times a wek, probably for ten years. And I grew up around people who ended up in jail for violent crime. One of my closest friends ended up in jail for arson. It was a crucible. A very violent place 3 . We glimpse this past in Savage in Limbo through Tony?s story of his buddy Jimy Rina who blew up his sister with a nail bomb and April?s recollections of her hero, Father Rogan, and his downward spiral from respected priest to neighborhood crazy man. The violence is not only in the stories; it is also in the language. The characters employ cras language and are merciles with one another. Linda, who is stil hoping for reconciliation with Tony, tels him, ?Listen to you. I think you got about a five-wat bulb burnin in there. It?s a miracle to me that you can make your way around 4 .? These are not typical words of romance, but there is a poetic beauty to Shanley?s characters, even when they are being cruel to one another. Music and poetic language was as much a part of John Patrick Shanley?s childhood as the violence of the Bronx. His father emigrated from Ireland at age twenty-four and Shanley?s mother was first-generation US citizen from an Irish imigrant family. In their household, the xtended family would gather and Shanley?s father would sing Irish folk songs and play the acordion 5 . Shanley describes him as ?explosively wity? and possesed of a gift for language that he 3 Martha McCarty, ?John Patrick Shanley: A Literary Childhood,? Dramatics Magazine, Sept. 1998, 10. 4 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 22. 5 Martha McCarty, ?John Patrick Shanley: A Literary Childhood,? Dramatics Magazine, Sept. 1998, 12. 7 finaly understood when he went to visit his aunt and uncle on the family farm back in Ireland who ??spoke, basicaly in poetry, al the time 6 .? The young John Patrick Shanley contributed to the poetic quality of his household as wel. He began writing poetry at age elven, and it was his dominant form of literary expresion until he discovered playwriting in his final year at NYU. While Shanley was writing poems that his mother would display under the glas coffee table top in the family living room, he was also reading poets such as Gerard Manley Hopkins, Dylan Thomas, Yeats and Baudelaire 7 . He had never spoken with anyone about what he read until he was expeled from Cardinal Spelman High School. At the New Hampshire prep school where his parents sent him, he surprised his teachers with a broad knowledge of poets and their work?when they could understand him. ?I had a very heavy Bronx acent and I mispronounced words I had only read?the one that comes to mind is Guy-duh-moss-pot instead of Guy de Maupasant 8 .? He had an early gift for uniting the language of the Bronx and poetry. In Limbo: Shanley in the 1980s While Savage in Limbo has a strong foundation in Shanley?s childhood in the 1960s, its subject mater and theatrical devices, like those of his other ?Bronx plays?, 6 Boris Kachka, ?Influences: Pulitzer Winner John Patrick Shanley,? New York Magazine, April 18 2005, http:/ww.newyorkmetro.com/nymetro/arts/theater/11704/index.html (acesed 09 March 2006) 7 Martha McCarty, ?John Patrick Shanley: A Literary Childhood,? Dramatics Magazine, Sept. 1998, 10. 8 Boris Kachka, ?Influences: Pulitzer Winner John Patrick Shanley,? New York Magazine, April 18 2005, http:/ww.newyorkmetro.com/nymetro/arts/theater/11704/index.html (acesed 09 March 2006) 8 are undeniably bound to the state of his life in the early 1980s. He considers Savage in Limbo to be part of a four-play cycle including Danny and the Dep Blue Sea, the dreamer examines his pilow, and Italian American Reconciliation, which focused on his personal struggles at that point in his life 9 . Shanley wrote Savage in Limbo while his first marriage was faling apart and he was trying to decide ultimately what to do with his life. Repeatedly tempted in the 1980s to move from lower Manhatan back to the Bronx, he made it as far up as 177 th street before he ?had to stop [himself] from crossing over the line into the Bronx and never coming back 10 .? With plays like Savage in Limbo, Shanley shows us that while you can never realy go home, you can visit. He put his struggles?al of the ?voices in his head 11 ??on stage to talk to one another and wrestle with the black and white notion that there are times in life when one must decide to either change or die. ?If you pay atention to your emotions, they wil tel you what to do?If you come to trust that and say ?I am this person. I was born this person? as opposed to ?I did not chose to be this person. I was born that person.? Now I can either choose to live that life or do nothing. Those are the only two choices I can make?If you step off your road?you stand there for as long as you want?you can?t go back and you?re not going to be on anybody else?s?you?re going to be on yours. So, it?s like choosing life or death, whether you are going to live your life or you?re not going to live. Maybe you?re going to stay in a state of stasis and wait for death which you se a lot of people doing 12 . 9 Craig Gholson, ?John Patrick Shanley,? Bomb, 24 Summer 1988, 25. 10 Boris Kachka, ?Influences: Pulitzer Winner John Patrick Shanley,? New York Magazine, April 18 2005, http:/ww.newyorkmetro.com/nymetro/arts/theater/11704/index.html (acesed 09 March 2006) 11 Craig Gholson, ?John Patrick Shanley,? Bomb, 24 Summer 1988, 23. 12 Ibid, 23. 9 The five characters in Savage in Limbo represent various iterations of the dichotomy betwen life and death that Shanley described. The play takes each of them to the edge of the road, and forces them to make a choice. By the end of the play, they have each made their choice?life, death, or the ?side of the road?. Linda has been living a marginal version of her life until Tony?what she considers her life?tries to take a new direction without her. Tony has ?been dreamin [his] life?d when [he] said go,? watching it al slip away 13 . Linda and Tony choose life. She reenters the race and he leaves the bar, finaly starting a life. Murk and April have been idling on the side of the road for a long time before the play begins. Murk is content with his imple routine; to him, it is life. April is les content, tormented by the life she is watching disappear, but when given the choice of geting out or remaining unchanged, she chooses to continue ?just starin at the metr runnin 14 ,? leting Murk take her back to a life that left her long ago. Denise is stuck betwen these two ends of the spectrum of life and death. She has a sincere desire to change, to move on, to start living her life, but she is out of touch with her emotions and cannot feel her way down into the person she is and alow herself to get back on her road and continue living. Instead she remains in a black hole of intelectual ruminations that wil not alow her to move forward yet tels her she cannot move backward. While Shanley wrote plays like Savage in Limbo to work through the problems he was experiencing, that part of his career?devoted to looking back at the 13 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 36. 14 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 18. 10 Bronx he left? eventualy came to an end. ?I?m not that much of a ?go back and purchase your childhood home? kind of person. It doesn?t realy work. I remeber Bob Dylan did, and you know, eventualy he sold it again 15 .? The Gred Decade Beyond being linked to a major crisis point in John Patrick Shanley?s life, Savage in Limbo is bound to the time it grew out of: the 1980s. The tragedy of these five characters wasting their lives is thrown into sharp relief when considered in the context of Reagan Era American society. Shanley, and the characters he creates in Savage in Limbo were children in the socialy idealistic1960s, came of age in the 1970s Me Decade of ?extreme self-examination? and hit a crisis point in the 1980s Greed Decade of ?self-expresion and grandstanding 16 .? Their voices and the social standards of succes that these characters fail to met are unique to that time in our country?s history. Just as Tony and Linda want to escape their homes and routines, they also struggle against the ideals of the 1980s. Denise is entirely aware of the changing world around her, but she cannot move into the time, while Murk and April checked out of society long ago, and live in a time that has been replaced. 15 Boris Kachka, ?Influences: Pulitzer Winner John Patrick Shanley,? New York Magazine, April 18 2005, http:/ww.newyorkmetro.com/nymetro/arts/theater/11704/index.html (acesed 09 March 2006) 16 Anne Slowey, Foreword to Ele Style: The 1980s, by Fran?ois Baudot and Jean Demachy, Newport Beach: Filipachi Publishing, 2003, 6. 11 The character of Tony is linked to the ideas of status-dresing and looking for something outside one?s self to find happines 17 . In his case, it is the conquest of women. He reduces his life to ?the girl, the car, [and] the bed?, externalizing his happines and making it something he can posses 18 . Like a corporate drone striving for happines in wealth, he eliminates the things that hold him back (relationships, for instance) and cultivates what wil help him succed (appearance). When he realizes his life is pasing him by, he thinks that changing his appearance can change his life, but Linda knows it wil not be enough. ?You can change your clothes from now to New Year?s and it ain?t gonna do you dip. What you gotta do, Anthony, swetheart, is you gotta do your laundry. It ain?t the new clothes that make the man. It?s what he does with his dirty things 19 .? By changing clothes and looking for ?ugly girls? to save him, Tony would simply be remarketing the same product in a different package to get what he needs, but this time his women would also be in a new package? physical uglines. While Linda can se Tony?s problems, she is blind to her own, even though she and Tony are both caught up in the similar dilemas. She also externalizes her happines, placing it in Monday nights with Tony and what it takes to keep Monday night, which is her external appearance. She is influenced by the body-consciousnes 17 Anne Slowey, Foreword to Ele Style: The 1980s, by Fran?ois Baudot and Jean Demachy, Newport Beach: Filipachi Publishing, 2003, 5. 18 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 21. 19 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 23. 12 trend of the time as wel as the repackaging of her identity to succed 20 . ?I said I?d be ugly for him, but he said no. It didn?t work that way. I?m so ashamed. I fel ugly. I feel fat 21 .? For both Linda and Tony, it is when they stop looking at the exterior that they are able to rejoin life. They each se they have problems inside themselves, and acept them in order to change. They choose one another because they look beyond the surface and choose to embrace ach other, imperfect as they may be. Denise has failed to step into the 1980s. ?The 1970s gave us the explosion of pop-psychology, feminism, [and] the sexual revolution?? which let single women have upwardly mobile carers, move out of the family home, and enjoy sexual freedom unlike any other time in the history of the United States 22 . Instead of embracing these changes to move forward in life, she has remained in her childhood bedroom, a thirty-two year old virgin trying to ignore her discontent. She tries to explain to Linda what it feels like to be a virgin, ?I feel strong. Like I?m wearin chains and I could snap ?em any time. I fel ready. I go to work and I feel like I could take over the company, but I just type, 23 ? and tels a story of wasted opportunity. Denise ses the options spread out before her, but wil not take a step forward to embrace the opportunities she has been afforded by the times in which she lives. Her life wil remain staled until she stops looking at her options and chooses one. 20 Anne Slowey, Foreword to Ele Style: The 1980s, by Fran?ois Baudot and Jean Demachy, Newport Beach: Filipachi Publishing, 2003, 8. 21 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 12. 22 Anne Slowey, Foreword to Ele Style: The 1980s, by Fran?ois Baudot and Jean Demachy, Newport Beach: Filipachi Publishing, 2003, 5. 23 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 13-14. 13 Murk and April are unable to be part of the world that outsiders like Tony, Linda and Denise bring into the bar. Beyond failing to achieve personal or financial succes, they actively pursue the status quo in a time when progres and the slogan ?Just Do It? was stil a mantra, not a corporate slogan 24 . At some point, they both checked out of life. For April it appears to have been when her mother, ?the only person ever stupid enough to love me?, died on a childhood Christmas; that is where Murk takes April to return her happines 25 . It is les clear when Murk decided to stop moving forward. His wooden foot, strict adherence to rules, and dialogue with Denise suggest the possibility that he served in Vietnam. SAVAGE. He?s never grown up. He stil thinks he?s playin Simon Says on the playground. MURK. I never played Simon Says. SAVAGE. Wel, whatever. MURK. I played War. SAVAGE. Bang, bang. MURK. Shut up, Savage 26 . These two characters, caught in the past, further highlight the entrenchment of the 1980s in Tony and Linda as wel as the dichotomy of life and betwen the two couples. Furthermore, these characters tie the play to a specific history that would be absent if the play were updated to the present day. 24 Anne Slowey, Foreword to Ele Style: The 1980s, by Fran?ois Baudot and Jean Demachy, Newport Beach: Filipachi Publishing, 2003, 11. 25 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 35. 26 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 10-11. 14 Chapter 2: Pre-Production Proces Concept Meting The first step in our design proces at the University of Maryland is a Concept Meting in which the director discusses their conceptual approach to the show. When the design team et with Profesor H?bert he told us to feel free to share our ideas openly as we worked together. In this spirit of collaboration, he brought two strong ideas to the table to discuss with the designers: the ?concert play? and Hyperrealism. John Patrick Shanley describes Savage in Limbo as a ?concert play?, and elaborates on what that means to him. In a concert play the audience, at least in my mind, is included in the world which the characters inhabit. And the play itself is more a series of related emotional and intelectual events than a conventional story. The characters are given more room, more stage, to expres themselves than the restraints of naturalism would alow. And I hope of course, too, that there is a certain musical performance quality to it al 27 . Profesor H?bert further unpacked the idea, relating it to the way Shanley composes his characters?they are bigger than life. Additionaly, because each character has a different sound, like different genres of music, their intense moments of confesion play out like arias, pushing energy out in waves. Visualy, this meant the design elments needed to support this energy flow and pull in the audience. Profesor H?bert wanted the design to hold the play, but not comment on it. It would be 27 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 3. 15 grounded in reality but not slave to it. I interpreted that to mean my costume design should act as a realistic canvas for the actors. I would give them a foundation that indicated who the characters are, and they would flesh out the character?s life in the performance. The second idea Profesor H?bert was interested in exploring was Hyperrealism. Hyperrealism is a genre of painting in which the subject is depicted in such realistic detail that the effect surpases reality, creating an almost unsetling depiction of life 28 . Because the struggles and emotions of the characters are at the edge of reality, he wanted to explore the idea of incorporating hyper-real details into the design as a visual metaphor. This was intriguing because it would keep my idea of the design being a ?blank canvas? from descending into stereotypes. Grasping on to these two ideas, I began my visual research. Research When I initialy met with Profesor Huang following the Concept Meting, she asked me why Profesor H?bert and the design team wanted to set the show in the 1980s instead of updating it to present day. I explained the two compeling factors in favor of the 1980s. First, the text is rife with time-specific references. Tony?s briliant and extensive monologue about the Soviet Union could be perceived as irrelevant fiften years after the end of the Cold War. Second, these characters were writen in a time when personal succes was of paramount importance, and they are al failing miserably at reaching benchmarks of personal succes. 28 MSN Encarta ?Hyperrealism? (acesed 09 March 2006) http:/encarta.msn.com/dictionary_1861739424/hyperrealism.html 16 Satisfied with our reasons, Profesor Huang advised me not to focus on clothing of the period in initial research, but rather strive to show an intuitive understanding of the characters using images from the 1980s. Forcing myself to disregard clothing, I found inspiration primarily in the photography of Nan Goldin, Philip-Lorca diCorcia, and David Armstrong. For me, each of these photographers captured in their work different aspects of what I saw in Savage in Limbo. Nan Goldin depicts the dirty, ugly side of urban life, and dives deep into human sexuality, the experience of her own abusive relationships, and mental ilnes. Philip-Lorca diCorcia photographs isolated people in images that look artificial and cut off from the subject. He uses unusual light and colors that evoke an uneasy feeling. David Armstrong takes portraits of people who are beautifully fragile and damaged. These qualities fit my impresion of the characters. I checked in with Profesor Huang again after my initial round of research, and she liked the direction I was headed. She told me to email Profesor H?bert and let him know the nature of the research I was bringing and promise clothing research with the sketches. I did this and set up a time to met with the design team again. Research Exchange and the ?Interactive Cornel Box? Mr. Van Wyk, Ms. Wolf and I got together before our Research Presentation Meting to touch base and share our images. We spread everything out on a table, explained why we liked particular images and looked for connections in our research. We did not ned to look very hard. Beyond a unified emotional connection to the play, we also had more concrete 17 research ideas in common. Each of us were drawn to images with unexpected details such as a jukebox in someone?s living room or a poured cement dog siting in the corner of a room. We also had an interest in similar materials and textures: brick, paneling, tile, plastic and synthetic fabrics. The most exciting overlap in research was related to color. Al three of us were in love with a putrid shade of gren that reoccurred across our images. We unanimously agreed that the show?s palete felt like it should balance neutrals and colors, with the colors generaly being lower intensity, higher saturation shades. Whenever Mr. Van Wyk prefaces a remark with ?This may be a crazy idea, but?? I am instantly interested in what he has to say. At the end of our research exchange when he told Ms. Wolf and me that he wanted to build an environmental box loosely based on Joseph Cornel?s sculpture boxes as a design development tool to share with Profesor H?bert 29 . He invited us to join him, and we gladly acepted. I wanted to work with Mr. Van Wyk closely as he developed the environment because Murk and April sem like fixtures of the bar to me, like the furniture or dead plants on the set, and I wanted our designs to have unity. We each brought elments we wanted to incorporate into the piece. My favorite contribution was an old metal fan I found at a thrift store. When I brought it out, Mr. Van Wyk asked me if he had talked about a fan the previous night. When I told him he had not, he laughed in disbelief; we were on the same page. 29 Joseph Cornel was a mid-20 th century sculpture who created art pieces consisting of ?dovecotes? and ?boxes? filed with text, images and 3-d objects based on a visual theme or metaphor. 18 Research Presentation Meting At the Research Presentation Meting Mr. Van Wyk?s original asesment was confirmed, the environmental box was deemed ?crazy.? Crazy, but effective at conveying thre ideas the design team was interested in developing: the stage space not being cut off from the audience, a sense of history to the bar, and an unpleasantnes that should repulse the characters, and yet does not. I used the Research Meting as an opportunity to refine my direction though Profesor H?bert?s feedback. I presented my research images to Profesor H?bert in pairs or groups, explaining what I liked about each image and making mental notes on the images in which he also saw his ideas about the characters. I also eliminated images that were les effective. Profesor Huang?s advice to not show too much clothing research was spot- on. Profesor H?bert and I were able to use the images I presented to talk about the characters without geting bogged down in buttons and hemlines. Profesor Conway, Mr. Van Wyk?s advisor, was concerned that I would fal behind in the design proces because I had not shown more clothing research prior to sketching. I agreed to met with Profesor H?bert prior to the Preliminary Design Presentation Meting to show more research. Sketching and Post-Research Meting Because much of what constitutes detailed clothing research for the 1980s is found in magazines and catlogues, which lack any reference to character and instead focus on seling a product, I wanted to present it side by side with sketches. I set to 19 work sketching to prepare for my post-research meting. I reviewed al of my clothing and character research and began sketching quickly, leting my intuition guide me through the revisions. The show was being cast early in the same wek the design team would present preliminary designs. I wanted to get a workable set of sketches out and feedback from Profesor H?bert because I prefer to design for a character first and consider the specific actor second. My goal was to be working on revisions when the cast list was posted. For the character of Denise, I designed a wrap dres with a ribbon tie closure, pumps and a distresed leather jacket. I sketched a flower in her hair, half as a joke to myself, ??a be in a jar, dreaming about flowers? 30 ? Linda was over the top in a mini-skirt, lace shirt and dangerously high heels. I loaded on the acesories that Profesor H?bert and I had discussed from my research. I took my inspiration for April from a research image Profesor H?bert liked. I gave her a layered look with a long te shirt, sweater and jacket al over leggings with high top sneakers. I finished it with a girlish headband that was offbeat with her sad clothes. The men were more basic in style but a study in contrast. Tony looked ?done up? and impractical in leather pants, a flowing silk shirt and too much jewelry. Murk was at the other end of the spectrum, utilitarian in his button-up shirt, tie, work pants and solid work boots. I met with Profesor Huang, she told me the sketches were fun to look at but that I needed to be careful not to get too carried away, especialy with the women. The five characters are al very different people, but I needed to make sure they were al in the same world, and that no one character looked too extreme 30 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 13. 20 next to another character. Preliminary Design Presentation I chose to not present color renderings at the Preliminary Design Presentation because Mr. Van Wyk was not yet ready to move into color and was showing a neutral model. It was important to me that we remained close together as we progresed into color because I wanted to make a clear distinction betwen Murk and April, who are part of the world of the bar, and the other characters who come into the bar from the outside, and I knew color would play a role in making that clear. I presented my sketches alongside supporting research and Profesor H?bert agreed with most of my choices. Murk, Tony, and Denise were ready to be sen in color renderings. Linda?s mini-skirt and sexy top were something the character would wear, but, as Profesor Huang had cautioned me, they were a litle too extreme for the circumstances of the text. Profesor H?bert was interested in making Linda?s movement very active, which would require a more flexible style. He had lent me a copy of the film Mortal Thoughts early in the proces as a jumping off point for the period style and to show me how he saw the characters in Savage in Limbo interacting. He asked to se a sketch of Linda in pants and urged me to keep the style of Demi Moore?s character from the movie in mind as I did my next round of sketches. April was the character that Profesor H?bert and I had the hardest time connecting on, despite our early agrement on research images. She is an extremely complex character. Her lines, although smal in amount, always have impact. 21 Profesor H?bert could not se April in pants so he asked for a more feminine sketch with ?les going on?. I could understand his request. Going back to my desire to design costumes that could act as a canvas or the performer, I needed to simplify. Sketching, Round Two Back at the drawing board, I created a new look for Linda first. Taking inspiration from Mortal Thoughts, I sketched high-waisted jeans paired with a sexy lace top. I finished the look with cowboy boots and a big belt, keeping the hair and acesories from the first round of sketches. My new look for April was more simple and feminine. It consisted of a knee- length coton summer dres and a somewhat shabby cardigan sweater matched with flats and a soft, side swept ponytail. I launched into color, hoping these revisions fit Profesor H?bert?s vision. Design Presentation When we met again for the Design Presentation Meting Profesor H?bert was very pleased with Linda?s revision. He especialy liked the cowboy boots, which he had previously intimated were his favorite part of Demi Moore?s Mortal Thoughts costume. Before we moved on to April, Profesor H?bert had a second thought. Linda?s short-sleved red lace top was not feminine enough. He asked me ?How about some ruffles or something?? I was skeptical, but I told him I would se what I could do. Privately, I was afraid the look would be dowdy. April was les succesful. The look was too sad with the frumpy sweater. 22 Profesor H?bert explained that he thought she would be more fashionable because she has a line about keping her ?options open? when she refuses to marry Murk 31 . He wanted to justify why she would consider herself a catch, by making her fairly atractive. We talked about the choice, and I respectfully disagred with his asesment that she had a fashion consciousnes. I interpreted the text as she had gone from wanting to become a nun to a downward spiral of drinking and personal neglect. Where or when did the awarenes of fashion manifest? At an impase, the dramaturg, Susan Haedicke voiced her opinion that April could be stuck in another era in which her life had ben good, for instance, the mid-1970s when she would have been in her mid-twenties. Intrigued by that possibility, Profesor H?bert and I agred to look at a sketch of a 1970s inspired look. In terms of color, I was making progres. While Mr. Van Wyk was stil in betwen the white model and a color model, he and I had met to discuss color and he was not worried about my choices prior to the Design Presentation Meting and agreed that I neded to move forward and show color. Profesor H?bert agreed with the majority of my color choices, even that of April whom we had not setled on a final design for yet. He was concerned about Tony. He felt the shirt was too busy with the number of colors it contained and asked me to paint one that was les colorful, yet stil ?popped?. Revisiting April Once again working on April, I created thre looks with varying levels of 31 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 35. 23 1970s influence. The first look I created was separates: a long coton tunic shirt paired with a prairie style skirt. I thought it might be perceived as too fashionable because both of those styles had resurfaced as fashion trends this year. The second was inspired by a 1980s Gunne Sax dres with a strong 1970s inspiration. While I liked it in terms of its place in fashion history, it felt ?Litle House on the Prairie? to me. The final look was a clasic 1970s empire-waisted dres with a crochet lace vest. I liked this look the best, but I was not sold on the 1970s style as ?April enough?. In my next meting with Profesor H?bert, I explained the three renderings and told him y ?pros and cons? of each. We agred on most of my reservations about the first two looks, and we decided to work with the 1970s empire line dres. Design Check-up Meting We held an additional design team meting to show Mr. Van Wyk?s finalized color model and my color and style changes. Profesor H?bert liked the ruffled top on Linda. Revisiting Tony?s shirt, I had swung too far toward tame with a striped vivid orange and Columbia blue and he told me to go back to my original idea for the multi-colored print. April was a longer conversation. Howard Shalwitz, who had previously remained relatively silent about my costume choices, asked an important question. Why does April look so put together? Profesor H?bert and I explained the idea that April stil thought she was ?a catch? and that we were trying to show that in her look. Mr. Shalwitz agreed with that possibility but suggested that we look at taking a 24 slightly quirkier approach to the character?maybe a frumpy sweater or something else that does not work with the dres. We decided to try blending more of my ideas from the second round of sketching into the current look. Confident that we agred on our new direction, we decided to forego another round of April sketches. Design Approval Betwen metings with Profesor Hebert and the design team, I was working with Ms. Ragland to cost-out the show, and the budget looked tight. We were going into the Design Approval Meting with a budget breakdown that showed us going over budget because I had designed several items that were both unusual and expensive. We discussed the possibility of cutting some of those items from the design?leather pants, boots for Linda, the Santa suit, beard and wig. Unfortunately, most of these items were non-negotiable. Santa is in the script, and Linda?s boots were too important to her look. Ms. Ragland pointed to the leather pants as the best option and I had to be firm. I could not do it. While the line in the script says that Tony ?sometimes? wears leather pants, I knew, as an audience meber, that if I heard that line and then he came in wearing something other than leather pants, I would be taken out of the moment wondering why he was not wearing them. Ms. Ragland expresed her confidence that I could shop the show for the amount we were alotted, but she was firm at the Design Approval Meting, making it clear to al present that we could not afford major changes. With frugality impresed upon me, I made my shopping plans. 25 Chapter 3: Production Proces Shopping After my design for Savage in Limbo was approved in mid-December, I atempted to pull costume pieces from Maryland?s stock. Because Maryland keeps very few modern garments, and the smal amount in stock would not fit my cast, I switched tactics and began to shop for the costume pieces. I knew I had a limited amount of time to complet my initial shopping because the show was approved very close to the end of the fal semester, and al of my pieces were due in the shop by the end of the first wek we returned from winter break. To further complicate maters, the pieces I needed to buy were very specific, and the budget mandated prudence in al non-returnable purchases. My next step was to make a shopping plan in order to use my time effectively. Most of my clothing purchases would probably be second-hand because I was looking for garments from the 1980s. I decided to go to vintage and thrift stores before the mal to maximize my chances of finding the right garments quickly. I also broke down the list of items I needed to buy into categories based on where I thought I might find them. I began my shopping at vintage stores in Takoma Park, Maryland because they have the largest quantity of quality vintage clothing available in the greater Washington D.C. area. I set a goal to find Linda?s boots, April?s dres and sweater, Denise?s dres and shoes, and Tony?s silk shirt in Takoma Park. It was a very ambitious goal, and not surprisingly I did not met it. Vintage stores have a constantly rotating stock that can be heavy on one era of clothing for a time then shift 26 to another era as people buy pieces. The 1980s were not prominent in any Takoma Park shops. I managed to find April?s dres (which had a 1970s flavor) and shoes for Denise. Undaunted, I ventured into Washington D.C. to try the shops on U Street, NW. My luck turned and I found a sweater for April and a dres I hoped could work for Denise, but the dres was questionable. I found a navy polyester mate jersey wrap dres?exactly what I needed?but it had long, dolman sleves and a long skirt. I had designed short cap sleves and a kne-length skirt. I thought my draper could alter the dres to my design, but I was concerned about the extra work it would cause for Ms. Deighton. After much debate I bought the dres, deciding it would be a beter use of time to buy the dres and alter it than to build it or have to come back again later to buy, risking it being sold out from under me. Having made only smal progres, I ended the day shopping online. I purchased leather pants and a colorful silk shirt for Tony from the International Male website. Before leaving Maryland for the winter break I made a two-day thrift store tour and a trip to the mal. The thrift stores were much more fruitful than the vintage stores. The first day I bought complet outfits for Murk and Linda as wel as a beter sweater for April and acesories for Denise. On the second day I was les succesful at the thrift stores, only finding purses?albeit very good ones?for al three women. I continued to come up short on boots for Linda and April. My problem was solved at the Prince Georges Plaza Mal where I finaly found the elusive boots. While I was out of town for Christmas, the package from International Male arrived. I was worried about the silk shirt I had ordered for Tony. It was very bright 27 and the silk charmeuse fabric had a bolder sheen than I was expecting. I would not know how it looked under lights until Ms. Wolf could return from break and we could look at it together in the light lab, but I sensed the silk?s reflective nature would be a problem. I made another mal trip and thrift store tour to buy more options for Tony?s silk shirt. I went to the local thrift stores again, but I did not find any shirts. I stumbled across a ruffled lace top that I picked up as another option for Linda. It was white, but I knew I could dye the nylon lace red, and if the shirt worked, Profesor H?bert (who wanted ruffles) and I (who wanted lace) would se both our visions realized in one garment. I decided it was time to go further out in Maryland to find the silk shirts, taking trips to Rockvile, Indian Head, and Bladensburg. It was worth the effort because I found a hidden cache of silk shirts at a Salvation Army store in Bladensburg. Satisfied that I had enough options for fitings, I set up a fiting schedule with Ms. Ragland. Fitings: Round One My fitings were scheduled for the first wek of rehearsals. I planned to se the women first, anticipating that those fitings would present more potential chalenges. We brought Lindsey Snyder, who was playing Denise, in for her fiting first because the navy jersey dres would need significant alterations, and we wanted to give Ms. Deighton an early start. She was initialy resistant to my request to reshape the sleves because she did not think the dolman shape could be satisfactorily altered into cap sleves. I felt certain that the dres could be altered, and Profesor Huang 28 agreed with me. After receiving some asistance from Ms. Ragland in the fiting, Ms. Deighton found an aceptable solution for creating cap sleves out of the dolman shape. In the end everyone, including Ms. Snyder, was pleased with the dres, but none of my jacket options worked. I wanted the jacket to look too casual and worn out to match the dres. While the jackets I tired were correct to the period, they simply did not achieve the look I was developing with the outfit. I decided to buy another jacket and se it on Ms. Snyder in her second fiting. The next fiting with Ms. Madorno, who was playing April, was very short. The only significant change was in undergarments. When she put on her dres, it was slightly too tight in the bust, but she and I agred that a les supportive, unlined bra would correct the problem. After the fiting I began to have an uneasy feeling. Ms. Madorno strongly resembled my rendering, which Mr. Shalwitz rightly caled ?too fashionable? in the Design Presentation meting. Even with the quirky sweater I substituted for the 1970s crochet vest and fewer acesories, I was not sure if I had made the right choice when I let myself be convinced to make April?s look more "pulled together". I resolved to revisit the look again before tech. My fiting with Ms. DeSanti, who was playing Linda, was problematic. The boots we tried fit wel and looked wonderful, but Ms. DeSanti did not like them because she thought the pointy 1980s toe shape made them ?clownish.? We had a similar experience with the tight, high-waisted jeans I had designed. Ms. DeSanti was outside of her comfort zone because both the boots and jeans were such a radical departure from what she is used to wearing. Profesor Huang could tel she was frustrated and asked her to try on al of the different jeans and pick out her favorite. 29 Profesor Huang's solution of leting her pick out what she thought looked best worked. After asurance that she looked "like Linda", we were able to tentatively move forward in the fiting. We tried thre tops and narrowed down to a red cotton ruffled buton up that Profesor Huang loved but I was les excited about, and the white ruffled lace top that I favored. I did not like the three-quarter length sleves on the cotton top and Profesor Huang was ambivalent about the lace shirt because of the color, but Ms. DeSanti thought the lace looked sexier. I asured Profesor Huang the lace would look beter once dyed red, and she agreed to look at it in the second fiting. I gave Ms. DeSanti a jacket with a beaded tiger stitched on the back, and we finaly had a piece everyone liked. It went perfectly with a black metalic and gold chain-handled purse that she loved. I was ready to end the fiting on a high note when Ms. DeSanti asked about two items I was not anticipating: body padding, and a wig. Ms. DeSanti is very slender and padding would help her look more like Shanley?s description of Linda. A wig would have been easier and perhaps more effective in creating the 1980s ?big hair? than Ms. DeSanti?s own fine, shoulder- length hair. I fully understood her concerns on both topics, but I was not prepared to make any on the spot comitments. From the beginning of the design proces, Profesor H?bert and I were both opposed to wigs because the Kogod Theatre is a very intimate space, and wigs rarely look good up close. I explained this to Ms. DeSanti but asured her I would speak with him about the mater that day. I also promised to discuss the padding idea. I 30 sensed she was uneasy about both topics but I was resolved to have more concret information before making any promises. I did not have an opportunity to speak with Profesor H?bert directly, however, because Ms. DeSanti went to him first to voice her concerns. He stopped by the costume shop shortly after her fiting to discuss the wig and padding. Fortunately, I had been able to sit down with Ms. Ragland and we had a plan in place before he arrived. With Profesor H?bert?s approval, we decided to create both a padded girdle and a padded bra that together would help make Ms. DeSanti look more like she had given birth to thre children by giving her more prominent hips and a fuller, les youthful bust line. Neither Profesor H?bert nor I was keen on the idea of a wig, but we appreciated Ms. DeSanti?s concerns about her hair not being ful enough to create the style. We agreed to se a lace-fronted wig at the next fiting. If the wig did not work, we would try to work with her hair. The men?s fitings were succesful and relatively uneventful. Mr. Getman was very collaborative in the fiting, making a request for a tie and reading glases as acesories to enhance his character. The leather pants I bought for Mr. Wilson fit wel through the seat and hips, but I had some concerns about the fullnes of the legs. Because I wasn?t sure how intense his movement would be, I decided to keep my concerns to myself and wait until I had them on stage before making any radical requests to alter leather. Rehearsal Room Changes: Shoes 31 My footwear journey was eventful. Profesor H?bert requested show shoes to be used in rehearsal as early as possible. Early in the rehearsal proces new shoes were requested for Ms. Madorno, which did not surprise me because of my unresolved questions about the look we setled on for her. Slippers were specificaly requested to replace them. They semed to me like a good way to return quirkines to April?s design. I was more worried about a request for loafers worn without socks to replace the motorcycle boots on Mr. Wilson. I was concerned because motorcycle boots were specificaly discussed in the Preliminary Design meting, and the change did not initialy make sense to me. That look was a popular choice worn with jeans by ?yuppies? and British men in the 1980s. Loafers without socks simply did not fit my idea of an Italian stud in leather pants. Unable to bring myself to se skin peeking out from under the pant hem, I made a compromise I hoped Profesor H?bert would find aceptable. I bought a second pair of boots with a more streamlined look and a pair of slip-on dres shoes with fuller coverage than a loafer. Initialy Mr. Wilson liked the new boots beter, but Profesor H?bert was concerned that they would hinder Mr. Wilson?s movement. We opted for the slip-on dres shoes. Finaly, a request came to change the boots for Ms. DeSanti because they were ?fine? but did not ?do anything? for her walk. With my budget unable to acommodate extra shoes, I had to appeal to Profesor Huang and David Kriebs, our production manager, to go over budget in order to buy new boots. Citing the relatively smal size of the budget and the nature of the request to cover unanticipated 32 changes in the design, and not to cover mistakes or inappropriate changes, I was given permision by David Kriebs and Profesor Huang to extend my budget slightly. Fitings: Round Two Ms. Snyder?s second fiting went even beter than the first. Ms. Deighton worked magic in her alterations of the dres and it fit Ms. Snyder beautifully. Additionaly I found a wonderful leather jacket from the mid-1970s for her, and Ms. Snyder loved it, saying ?Denise bought this jacket for herself with her first real paycheck.? I was thriled that I gave Ms. Snyder a costume piece that was not only appropriate, but also spoke to her character. Ms. DeSanti?s second fiting also went wel. I had crafted a bra stuffed with lentils that gave her the fuler, lower bosom of a woman who had given birth and was ?almost fat 32 .? I paired it with a padded girdle that was undetectable under clothing, and Ms. DeSanti liked the changes to her typicaly slender shape. We further built up the look with shoulder pads, oversized earrings, and a new pair of 3 !-inch spike- heeld, slouch boots. The teased wig with side swept bangs finished off everything. Ms. DeSanti, Profesor H?bert, Profesor Huang and I al agreed that the wig neded to be restyled in a wider, fuller style without height in the bangs because they added too much length to Ms. DeSanti?s narrow facial features. Tech Wekend and Dres Rehearsals 32 John Patrick Shanley, Savage in Limbo, New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1986, 12. 33 I felt confidant going into tech wekend. I knew a few items would need more work, but they were not unmanageable. The costumes were completly wearable, and my extensive revisions before tech reasured me. Furthermore Ms. Wolf and I had taken the clothes into the light lab to test the gel colors on my fabrics, and I paid multiple visits to the paint shop to kep tabs on the paint colors as they developed. I made one last minute change on Friday night before the rest of the design team saw the costumes. I took away al of April?s acesories and asked her to wear the rehearsal sweater because it had become stretched out and had a magnificent coffee stain on it that I wanted to se on stage. When I went to Ms. Madorno to make these requests, I had an unpleasant discovery waiting for me. The peachy orange crinkle cotton dres did not fit her at al. Despite the bra change, the dres was even tighter than the first time she tried it. I reasured Ms. Madorno that it must have shrunk in the wash, and I had a replacement dres I could give her Monday after I dyed it orange. She agreed to wear the il-fiting orange dres for tech in order to help Ms. Wolf make informed color decisions. The show looked good on stage, but smal adjustments were stil necesary. I was wrong about the rehearsal sweater. The solid cream color was too hot under the lights and drew unneeded focus to April. Ms. Wolf and I conferred with Profesor H?bert and decided to try a brown sweater instead. It improved the color balance and the sweater had pockets, an added bonus that Ms. Madorno imediately took advantage of and began using in her performance. The last change on Friday night was Tony?s shirts. The white A-shirt and red- toned silk shirt were not popping off the set. He looked drab and did not match Ms. 34 DeSanti's power on stage. After looking at five more options, with the input of both Ms. Wolf and Mr. Van Wyk, we setled on the original silk charmeuse shirt from International Male. I planned to dye it down Monday to take away some of the intensity and shorten the sleves. The design team agreed those changes would help the color balnce. Saturday morning I went shopping. I found a belt with a huge, gaudy buckle and a black A-shirt for Tony. The new belt and shirt helped develop the look, but my impulse to cut the long sleves down myself (instead of leaving it for the draper on Monday) made a huge difference in the intensity of the colors. When we saw more of his arm, the shirt was les overwhelming. However, the biggest improvement to help the shirt came from Ms. Wolf. She adjusted her lights in a way that eliminated the need to dye it at al. My final change on Saturday was again related to shoes. Mr. Wilson was stil not matching Ms. DeSanti's power, and Profesor H?bert asked me if I could solve the problem with a taler hel. Nothing I pulled from stock worked. Over our dinner break I repurchased the boots I had tried on Mr. Wilson a few weks back. They worked; both Profesor H?bert and I were relieved. The anticipated item at Sunday night?s dres rehearsal was Ms. DeSanti?s wig. Unfortunately the stylist did not show up with the wig until the actors were caled to places. To make maters worse, the wig loked nothing like what I discussed with the stylist. At the production meting that evening, Profesor H?bert and I both agreed the wig was more of a hindrance than a help and cut it from the show. This worked 35 out very wel; an excelent hairstyle was achieved by the second evening using the actor's hair. Aside from the wig, Profesor Huang had only two concerns after dres rehearsal. We discussed how neat Murk looked with his tie fully done up. I explained that it was a character choice Mr. Getman had made and we agred to let it stand. Her other concern was the fit of April?s dres, which we already had a plan in place to correct. Sue Chiang was able to step in and do an alteration, inserting an extra piece of material in the back to give the dres more ease across the bust. Lisa Burges also pulled off a smal miracle by altering the leather pants, which both Profesor H?bert and I agreed needed a more streamlined fit on Mr. Wilson?s leg. Ms. Burges expertly handled taking them in through the leg without losing neded room in the hips and seat. I made very few additional changes during dres rehearsals. Because so many potential problems were corrected before we reached tech, the show was completd Tuesday evening, and I was pleased with the results. 36 Chapter 4: Post-Production Self-Analysis I think one of the most difficult chalenges any artist faces is being objective about their work because they have a close personal connection to it as the creator. This is even more difficult for theatre artists because we do not work alone, but rather we rely on one another to each do our part to take the show as far as it can go. It is easy to swing to extremes when asigning responsibility for a production?s shortcomings, either placing al of it on other collaborators or heaping too much on one?s self. Looking back on Savage in Limbo, I think it was a solid show. Now, with distance and a litle more perspective, I can se which of my choices worked, and what I could have adjusted. Costumes On Stage: What Worked If presed to name my best moments in Savage in Limbo I would point to three: Linda?s costume, the way Murk and April worked with the set, and visual pairing through costumes. Linda?s costume was my best individual look in the show; it visualy excited me as a designer. In the end, she was the whole package. Even the ruffles on her top that I feared would be dowdy worked. The costume worked with the performer, the set and the lights. Ms. DeSanti used every bit of the costume while she played the role, and it enhanced her work because each item I gave her was character driven. The balance of colors and textures among the pieces made her costume one of the most visualy interesting with the set and lights. The red top alowed her to stand out from 37 the green wals but the similar value betwen the color of her shirt and the color of the wals gave her a unity with the environment. The blue jeans never got lost against the dark wood bar because they were of a higher value. The textures in her costume also played a part in giving Linda a fairly unified look under most lighting conditions. She could walk though different areas, and while the colors would shift under the gels, the garments always looked good. Of al of my design ideas, I think I was most succesful in unifying Murk and April with the bar, and isolating them from the people who came into it. Working closely with Mr. Van Wyk through the color proces paid off in the look of Murk and April on the set. Their colors were in harmony with the set without leting them get lost in the wals. Beyond color, their straightforward, practical style of dres and the natural materials were unified with the environment and separated them from the ?outsiders? who were more dresed up, colorful, and wore a greater variety of textures and materials. Finaly, I think I succeded at the concept of ?visual pairing?. I typicaly dislike strongly linking couples and groups though their costumes unles it is a convention of the play?s period or style. I think subtle visual pairing worked for this show because it was used not only as a way to pair couples (Linda and Tony, Murk and April), but also as a way of isolating Denise from the other characters. I created the pairings through style, which I think is a more subtle technique than, for instance, color. Tony and Linda were dresed in a style that was more up-to-date and trendy, with a focus on contrasting textures and more saturated colors. Murk and April shared a unity through natural materials, les saturated colors and a clothing style that was clasic, 38 with a nod to the past. Denise was adrift with a look that did not match anyone else in the play. She paired with neither the flashy Tony and Linda nor the utilitarian Murk and April. Costumes On Stage: What Didn?t Work Like al art you never finish a design; you eventualy abandon it. If I had this show to do al over again, I think there are three things I would have adjusted that I eventualy let go in this proces: Tony?s shirt, and Denise?s dres, and the color balance among the costumes. The shirt we setled on for Tony was the best available solution, but looking back I now think I should have asked the shop to build my ideal shirt rather than insisting I would be able to find the perfect one. I liked it most of the time, but when Tony went into certain areas of the set the lighting did unflatering things to the shirt. He looked great in the general look of the room, but under the harsher practical support the material?s sheen was feminine and washed out, creating a hot spot in the overal stage picture. The lighting color change near the perimetr of the set did unatractive things to the shirt?s color when Tony was near the wals, especialy downstage left. Because the colors of the shirt were al the same value, they blended more and the gel color gave them a sickly appearance. I realize I could have worked with Ms. Wolf more to solve the problem, but I also understand that she neded both practical support and her perimetr colors to acomplish her design goals. Knowing what I do now, I would have selcted a material with variety in both color and value 39 to make the look ?pop?, and I would not have picked a fabric with a sheen. Denise?s dres was les of a distinct problem than Tony?s shirt. There were some nights it worked very wel, and other nights it felt wrong. I think some of this was related to how the performance was going for Ms. Snyder (in terms of artistic idea) and some of it was the mechanics of a wrap dres. The bottom line is that no costume is perfect, but it should be able to take almost anything the actor throws at it. In hindsight, to correct the technical errors I should have asked the shop to build a dres to her measurements rather than altering an existing one. Had the dres been technicaly perfect I am stil not sure if it was the best choice for the character, again this varied from night to night. Profesor H?bert and I talked about this at one point during tech. We both had a litle voice teling us something was not quite right. We both generaly liked the dres, but neither of us could pinpoint the source of our reservations about it. We let it go because it is impossible to correct a problem that cannot be identified. I am stil thinking about the problem, and the closest I have come to identifying it is that the dres was too specific for the character. She does not know who she is or what she wants, and maybe the dres did not serve as the ?blank canvas? for her to expres that. Perhaps I chose a dres that commented on her character too much. I was satisfied overal with the color relationship betwen the costumes and the other design elements, but there are very specific adjustments I would have made to enhance the stage picture. There were moments when Denise was lost against the bar. I would have taken her dres closer to my rendering, a royal blue, rather than navy, and if the shop had built it I would have selcted a fabric with a very smal print 40 to create more texture. I think those adjustments would have helped her visual power when she put herself betwen Linda and Tony and made her generaly more visible on the set. Also, to enhance visibility, I would have selcted a slightly darker value sweater for April. I think it would have worked beter, balanced betwen the value of her dres and the value of the bar; instead it was slightly too close to the dres. I also think that if the stripe in Murk?s shirt had been slightly stronger, it would have helped Ms. Wolf in her struggle to give Murk more dimension. Communication and Collaboration Every designer faces chalenges as they develop and find their path as an artist. Some are eliminated quickly, and others take longer to surmount. In my time as a student designer, I have ben working with Profesor Huang to improve my communication skils. Clear comunication is the key that opens the door to good collaboration with the production team. The Director and Goal-Oriented Problem Solving Profesor H?bert and I had an informal meting about Savage in Limbo months before our first Concept Meting. One of the things we discussed was the difficulty of ?front loading? a design into a show before the rehearsals begin. One of these chalenges is handling change in rehearsal when it inevitably happens. The key to making this proces as easy as possible is remaining flexible and learning the goal the director wants to acomplish through the change. I credit my work with Profesor 41 H?bert for leading me toward this goal-oriented method of problem solving. In the past I have had frustrating interactions with directors when handed a solution to something they wanted changed, especialy when the solution did not make sense in the context of the rest of the design. I had one of these xperiences with Profesor H?bert the first time we changed Mr. Wilson?s shoes and Profesor H?bert requested loafers without socks. I found a compromise that temporarily solved the problem, but in the end I needed to change the shoes again because I had not identified al of Profesor H?bert?s goals and balanced them with mine. Working in this new style, by the end of tech, adjusting the show no longer felt like changing the design because very adjustment I made to met Profesor H?bert?s goals was balanced with my own. I realize very director is different, and has a different communication style, but I think this goal-oriented approach can be a positive way to approach problem solving, especialy with someone you have not worked with before. It lends itself to a new working relationship because both people come together and brainstorm, thereby learning to speak a common language. Furthermore, it embraces the collaborative nature of theatre and alows collaborators to comunicate respectfully and avoid micro-managing one another. The Design Team: Al for One, and One for Al I have had a broad range of experiences collaborating with other designers in the past. I have worked with designers with whom I could never find comon ground, and others I agred with entirely. My collaboration with Ms. Wolf and Mr. 42 Van Wyk has been one of the most enjoyable I have experienced. In addition to being talented artists they are forthright, empathetic, and deeply interested in the contributions of other designers on the team. Mr. Van Wyk was always direct when we worked together. He told me exactly what he was striving for in his design as wel as offering feedback on my own and giving me help whenever I asked for it. While I was struggling with Tony?s shirt in tech, I sought his opinion. Ms. Wolf and I were too close to the problems with color and value to se our solution. Mr. Van Wyk urged me to be bold, and use the shirt I feared was too intense. The choice went against our original color ideas, but Mr. Van Wyk?s understanding of the importance of the costume in supporting Tony?s character made it possible for me to bend our self-imposed color rules to good result. Ms. Wolf is a skiled listener and great unifier, two talents I think go hand in hand. She began creating the glue to solidify our design ideas early by supplementing her own research with ideas she picked out in the research Mr. Van Wyk and I presented. She was also instrumental in solving my problems with Tony?s shirt. When we setled on one, I decided I would need to dye it to bring it more in the world of the set, and I discussed what direction Ms. Wolf would like me to take the color. When I returned to tech the next day, Ms. Wolf had eliminated that need through her lighting adjustments. I think the most succesful part of our collaboration was that while our designs were individualy interesting they needed each other?and the performers?to be complet. It is easy to have thre great visual ideas on stage that coexist, yet do not fully relate to one another. It takes much more compromise and devotion to bring 43 unity to the work of three artists. Savage in Limbo is an ensemble show?the lives of the characters interlock. The design echoed the ensemble-style of the piece. As each character in the ensemble has a moment to shine, so does each design elment. Diferent Actors, Diferent Neds As a costume designer I communicate with actors directly, and there is an art to doing it wel. Being friendly, profesional, and polite does not always mean you wil have a succesful interaction. I learned two valuable lesons about actor/designer collaboration on this show. The first is to be more concerned about their neds than they need you to be, and the second is to just be yourself. If I had followed these two precepts from the start, I would have had a much beter first fiting with Ms. DeSanti. I take people at face value. In Ms. De Santi?s first fiting I would ask her a question, she would answer positively, and I would move to the next topic. If she asked me a question, I was similarly direct with her. What I realized from her anxiety in the fiting is that she neded to be asked more than once how she felt about the costume pieces, the movement, and character. Also I could take the cue from her and give her longer, more detailed answers because she found the extra information useful, not superfluous. If I had simply emphasized my concern about her needs more, she would not have felt like I was disregarding her opinion. I need to tailor my atention level to what each actor wants, but it is beter to go too far, and then pul back than to not do enough. I should handle my demeanor in a similar way. I can be socialy awkward, and I try to control it by wearing my serious profesional face when I am working with 44 new people. I am learning that people would rather work with someone who shows their personality?quirks included?than a person who appears cold. Ironicaly, had I been more myself with Ms. DeSanti she probably would have ben more comfortable with me as a designer than she was while I was trying to ?act profesional.? I ned to concern myself more with being friendly and easy to talk with and let the quality of my work show my profesionalism. The Costume Shop Costume designers and costume technicians have the same goal: they want the shows they work on to look good. As a designer, I have learned four valuable communication lesons that help make that goal happen: knowing who to ask, knowing when to ask, remaining open to suggestions, and being as articulate as possible. Because I purchased al of the costumes for Savage in Limbo, I had les interaction with the shop, but my experience on this show reinforced these principles. When I wanted Tony?s leather pants taken in, I ended up with beautiful results because I was careful about how I approached the situation. I waited until I knew the alteration was necesary and I spoke with Ms. Ragland first, leting her confirm Ms. Deighton?s workload. As it happened, Ms. Deighton was too busy to make the changes herself. By going to Ms. Ragland, I eliminated unnecesary anxiety for Ms. Deighton, and Ms. Burges stepped in to complet the job. I was very clear about what I wanted?les material at the knee, and more negative space betwen his legs? and Ms. Burges worked out her own solution to make the change happen. Clarity about my neds also asisted me in geting the alteration Ms. Deighton 45 was initialy hesitant to make on Denise?s dres. When I wanted the sleves changed, I stated my goal for the look and provided the Ms. Deighton with visual research from which to work. By asking early, and giving her plenty of time to approach the project, Ms. Deighton and I were both happy. Life Lesons: Finding the Happy Medium During my first semester at the University of Maryland Profesor Huang said something to me that I always keep in mind when designing or teaching a design clas. A design needs to be burning hot or freezing cold, never in the middle. The middle is boring. This is true for designs but not for designers. There is something positive to be said for the happy medium. Flexibility I think every designer encounters difficulties with their level of flexibility, especialy early in their carer when they are les experienced. With experience we learn where the line fals betwen too rigid and too easily swayed. When I began designing at the university, I was too rigid because I could not communicate my ideas clearly. Had I been beter able to expres myself, I would have spent les time wondering why my ideas were being misinterpreted and more time making my ideas work. As I came to understand how to comunicate with others, I went too far the opposite direction and let myself lose sight of my ideas because I was trying too hard 46 to be flexible and ?nice?. I did a profesional show last summer that I was disatisfied with because, in my efforts to be pleasant and easy to work with, I let the director talk me out of my design ideas and push me towards recreating a previous production. I am beginning to se now that flexibility has different levels, and on most projects I wil need to fluctuate betwen different levels to acomplish my goals. On Savage in Limbo I was rigid when I wanted my draper to alter a dres to my design, and I was given what I wanted because while I was firm I was also polite and very specific when I explained my neds. I was flexible when Profesor H?bert and I could not agree on a direction for April, leting the dramaturg give me a whole new direction to take the character. When I finished that journey, I had a design that was stil mine but could never have happened if I had not opened myself up to suggestions. I have also learned that timing has an important impact on flexibility. I am much more open to change when I have time to se how the new idea fits into the bigger picture. In the past, when feling presured to make a snap decision without the opportunity to think it through, I would try to prevent the change. Now, if I have not had the opportunity to give a change enough thought, I ask for time to think before choosing a solution. ?Can I get back to you on that?? is the best question I have ever asked. I find that ten minutes to myself to consider a problem yields a beter solution and happier colleagues. Maintainig Perspective 47 For a long time, Profesor Huang has told me not to take criticism personaly because it is a reflection of the work, not me as a person. I have understood that for almost as long as she has been saying it, but she has continued to reiterate her point whenever we talk about a problem I am having. During the pre-production period of Savage in Limbo I finaly realized that, while I did not consider criticism of my work a direct reflection on me, I stil took it far too seriously because I took my work too seriously. Sadly it took the sudden, unexpected death of a family meber to shake me out of the mind set that my work is the most important thing in my life. The design team had a meting scheduled the same day as the funeral. Profesor Huang excused me from it and informed David Kriebs that I could not atend. Mr. Kriebs tried to reschedule the meting to a time earlier in the wek, not knowing why I could not atend. When he approached me about my availability, it came to me?sometimes you have to say ?no?, and I did. I surprised myself when I did that because I had put my work first for a long time, always striving to do the job perfectly. It made me realize that I cannot have perfection every time I try something, and more than that, no one else expects me or my work to be perfect every step of the way. Sometimes I wil need to reschedule metings and sometimes I wil need to buy thre pairs of shoes to find the perfect pair, but I cannot let each unexpected twist or turn become a struggle. If I do, I wil never be able to do my job, which is what design is, a job. It is a job I love, but I need to keep it in proper perspective. 48 Conclusion Looking back on my costume design for Savage in Limbo, I would consider the design succesful, even though there are things I think I could have done beter. Working through each problem ade me a beter designer because they increased my visual awarenes as wel as my ability to work with other people. Designing this show was an imensely satisfying experience. I am glad I had a smal, contemporary show for my last design at the University of Maryland. In addition to it being radicaly different from the other shows I designed here, it gave me the opportunity to take time in considering each step I took and why I chose those steps to realize my design. I think this heightened awarenes of my own actions wil help me as I transition from designing at the university to designing profesionaly. 49 Apendix A: Visual Research Fig. 1 Research Image for Savage in Limbo Photo by Nan Goldin Fig. 2 Research Image for Savage in Limbo Photo by Joann Calis 50 Fig. 3 Research Image for Savage in Limbo Photo by Nan Goldin Fig. 4 Research Image for Savage in Limbo Photo by Nan Goldin 51 Fig. 5 Research Image for Savage in Limbo Photo by Nan Goldin Fig. 6 Research Image for Denise Savage Photo by Philip-Lorca diCorcia 52 Fig. 7 Research Image for Denise Savage Photo by David Armstrong 53 Fig. 8 Research Image for Denise Savage?Dres 54 Fig. 9 Research Image for Denise Savage?Hair 55 Fig. 10 Research Image for Linda Rotunda Photo by Philip-Lorca diCorcia 56 Fig. 11 Research Image for Linda Rotunda Photo by Nan Goldin 57 Fig. 12 Research Image for Linda Rotunda Photo by David Armstrong 58 Fig. 13 Research Image for Linda Rotunda?Tops 59 Fig. 14 Research Image for Linda Rotunda?Jeans 60 Fig. 15 Research Image for Linda Rotunda?Boots 61 Fig. 16 Research Image for Linda Rotunda?Hair and Makeup 62 Fig. 17 Research Image for Tony Aronica Photo by Philip-Lorca diCorcia Fig. 18 Research Image for Tony Aronica Photo by Nan Goldin 63 Fig. 19 Research Image for Tony Aronica--Clothes 64 Fig. 20 Research Image for April White Photo by Maud Schuyler Clay 65 Fig. 21 Research Image for April White Photo by Nan Goldin Fig. 22 Research Image for April White Photo by Nan Goldin 66 Fig. 23 Research Image for April White?Dres 67 Fig. 24 Research Image for Murk Photo by Philip-Lorca diCorcia Fig. 25 Research Image for Murk Photo by Philip-Lorca diCorcia 68 Fig. 26 Research Image for Murk Photo by Philip-Lorca diCorcia 69 Fig. 27 Research Image for Murk Photo by Philip-Lorca diCorcia 70 Fig. 28 Research Image for Murk?Clothes 71 Fig. 29 Research Image for Murk?Shoes 72 Apendix B: Costume Renderings Fig. 30 Denise Savage Costume Rendering by Yvete M. Ryan 73 Fig. 31 Linda Rotunda Costume rendering by Yvete M. Ryan 74 Fig. 32 Tony Aronica (Final Color Version) Costume Rendering by Yvete M. Ryan 75 Fig. 33 Tony Aronica (Color version One) Costume rendering by Yvete M. Ryan Fig. 34 Tony Aronica (Color version Two) Costume rendering by Yvete M. Ryan 76 Fig 35 April White (Final Version) Costume Rendering by Yvete M. Ryan 77 Fig. 36 April White (Alternate Version One) Costume Rendering by Yvete M. Ryan Fig. 37 April White (Alternate Version Two) Costume Rendering by Yvete M. Ryan 78 Figure 38 Murk Costume Rendering by Yvete M. Ryan 79 Apendix C: Production Photographs Fig. 39 Lindsey Snyder as Denise. Photo by Stan Barouh 80 Fig. 40 Mai DeSanti as Linda, Lindsey Snyder as Denise, Tim Getman as Murk Photo by Stan Barouh. 81 Fig. 41 Mai DeSanti as Linda, Lindsey Snyder as Denise, Tim Getman as Murk Photo by Stan Barouh. Fig. 42 Lindsey Snyder as Denise. (front) Tim Getman as Murk, Tiernan Madorno as April Photo by Stan Barouh. 82 Fig. 43 Chris Wilson as Tony, Tim Getman as Murk, Mai DeSanti as Linda Photo by Stan Barouh 83 Fig. 44 Mai de Santi as Linda, Chris Wilson as Tony Photo by Stan Barouh. 84 Fig. 45 Chris Wilson as Tony Photo by Stan Barouh 85 Fig. 46 Tim Getman as Murk, Tiernan Madorno as April Photo by Stan Barouh Fig. 47 Tim Getman as Murk, Tiernan Madorno as April Photo by Stan Barouh 86 Fig. 48 Tiernan Madorn as April Photo by Stan Barouh 87 Fig. 49 Tiernan Madorno as April, Lindsey Snyder as Denise, Tim Getman as Murk (back) Photo by Stan Barouh 88 Fig. 50 Set Design by Eric Van Eyk, Lighting Design by Rebeca Wolf 89 Apendix D: Suporting Paperwork 90 91 92 Bibliography Arbiter, January/February1984, Vol. 57, No. 1. Milan: Rusconi Publications, 1984. Armstrong, David. David Armstrong?The Silver Cord. New York: Scalo, 1997. Coe, Robert. ?The Evolution of John Patrick Shanley.? American Theatre; Nov 2004, Vol. 21, No. 9, 22-29. Diamond, Robert. ?2005 Tony Awards Q&A: John Patrick Shanley.? June 3, 2005. http:/ww.broadwayworld.com/viecolumn.cfm?colid=3414 (acesed 09 March 2006) diCorcia, Philip-Lorca. A Storybook Life. Santa Fe: Twin Palms Publishers, 2003. Galsi, Petr. Pleasures and Terors of Domestic Comfort. New York: Museum of Modern Art, 1991. Gholson, Craig. ?John Patrick Shanley.? Bomb, 24 Summer 1988, 21-26. Goldin, Nan and Sussman, Elizabeth. I?ll Be Your Miror. New York: Scalo and Whitney Museum of American Art, 1996. Harper?s Bazaar, October 1989. New York: Hearst Corporation, 1989. Harper?s Bazaar, February 1991. New York: Hearst Corporation, 1991. Internet Movie Database. ?Biography for John Patrick Shanley.? http:/ww.imdb.com/name/nm0788234/bio (acesed 09 March 2006) Kachka, Boris. ?Influences: Pulitzer Winner John Patrick Shanley.? New York Magazine. 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